Sunday, January 17th, 2010 at
1:49 pm

Is photography 1 a hard class? (Click for the description of photo 1 at my school).?
Photo I is a creative arts course designed to introduce students to the world of photography from a
technical and creative viewpoint. This course centers on the study of traditional black and white
photography as it stands as a fine art form. Students learn how to use manual cameras in order to
achieve correct exposure, focus and composition. They gain the technical knowledge and experience of
developing film and photographic prints. They also gain confidence in their own creative mind in order to
create several original projects. Through critiques and discussions, students further articulate their ideas
and develop their artwork to make a social commentary or narrative. As a compliment to the traditional
processes of black and white, the course also ventures into digital photography and computer
manipulation
By that description does it seem like a hard class?
It’s not a “hard class” but it will require work and time on your part, as well as some cash most likely (for supplies). As stated, you’ll be using manual cameras and focusing on traditional b&w photography, which means: this is NOT digital. You’ll be using film, developing it in a darkroom, and making your own prints in a darkroom. No computers, no facebook, no myspace; just you and your classmates in a darkroom.
Granted, this is in my opinion the ONLY way anyone should learn photography and actually appreciate it as an art form instead of a “really cool way to do those one color and black and white photographies”.

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Black Gun Art Print
“Black Gun” is an artpiece representing the repression of black youth, expressing their frustration through violence, ending behind bars. This artwork is based on scene found in a graffiti park in Antwerp, Belgium in 2006….
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Blue Roses Art Print
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The “Blue Roses” art print was created primarily for those with discerning taste for artwork of a finer touch. This photograph has many rich tones and adds a progressive look to a classic flower theme….
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Creative Outdoor Photography – Part 2 [VHS]
The “Creative Outdoor Photography” two-part video series features the work of noted outdoor photographers Frans Lanting and Galen Rowell and was produced in association with Cole & Company, Inc. The videos offer amateurs and professionals creative insights into the award-winning wildlife portraits and landscape photographs for which Lanting and Rowell are renown. Under real field conditions, they…
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Itoya ES-12-14 Art Profolio Easel 14×17in. Art Size 22 Pocket Pages for 40 Views Black
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Fisher Price Kid-Tough Digital Camera for Girls
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Vtech Kidizoom Plus Digital Camera – Blue
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Spider-Man 3 Digital Camera with Preview Screen
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Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book
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Popularity: unranked [?]
Saturday, January 16th, 2010 at
9:20 pm

- 12.2-megapixel CMOS sensor captures enough detail for poster-size, photo-quality prints
- Large 3.0-inch LCD display; includes Canon’s EF-S 18-55mm, f3.5-5.6 IS zoom lens
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Canon Digital Rebel XSi 12.2 MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
Popularity: 1% [?]
Friday, January 15th, 2010 at
7:11 pm

- Easily make your own graphic templates.
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Express Digital Darkroom Professional Edition Workflow Software, Full Version for the Professional Specializing in Portrait, Wedding, Sports or Event Photography, for Windows.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2010 at
11:50 pm

- Fix common photo flaws quickly – straighten horizons, adjust color saturation, correct lens distortion, and more.
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Popularity: 4% [?]
Thursday, January 14th, 2010 at
12:07 pm

For studio portraits: how do I get the background to blend in so there is no shadows or gap between the person
and the backdrop. I’m having problems getting the background/backdrop to just blend into the photo. If the person stands too close to the backdrop there are shadows. If they stand too far away from the backdrop they gap shows and you don’t have that nice color just behind the person. Does this make any sense? I have a soft box and a white umbrella light – one on each side.
The gap is not on the sides. The cloth is very wide. I’m talking about the space between the person/people and the background. I want it to just blend in softly. I guess the lens brokeh (sp?) is what creates that?
I’m not sure what you mean by gap. I’m guessing you mean you can actually tell that there is a distance between the subject and the background? You need to use a wide aperture (the lowest f-stop) to throw the background out of focus and then that problem is solved. Also, use the softbox or umbrella to light the subject from one side, use a reflector to fill in the shadow on the other side and use the other strobe without an umbrella or softbox and direct it onto the background. Use aluminium foil to keep the light from the backlight from hitting the subject. Play around with the lighting until it is balanced between the subject and the background. Yes, you need a back light. It keeps the background from being too dark and also eliminates any shadow.
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Metal Studio Lamp with Telescopic Stand
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U.S. Light Tanks Stand By and Wait For Call Finest LAMINATED Print Unknown 18×12
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Cradlesong (Deluxe Edition CD/DVD)
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Deluxe edition features bonus DVD with interviews, plus a behind-the-scenes look at the album photo shoot and video shoot for “Her Diamonds”! Arguably the most accomplished singer/songwriter of his generation, Rob Thomas is one of modern music’s most compelling and commercially successful artists. Between Matchbox Twenty, his solo work, and his various collaborations with iconic artists like Santa…
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Westcott 301 Photo Basics 40-Inch 5-in-1 Reflector
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The Photo Basics 5-in-1 Collapsible Reflector Kit is versatile in the field and in the studio, providing shadow-lightening detail in your subject, using available, or studio lighting. It contains a translucent white disc, which is perfect for softening direct sunlight, or lights without diffusion. Use the removable, reversible zippered slipcover to reflect light into shadow areas of your subject. …
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Popularity: unranked [?]